BS Premier Lawn Grass Seed

BS Premier Lawn Grass Seed combines the highest quality Dwarf Amenity Perennial Ryegrass varieties with the finest-leaved fescue to create a truly exceptional lawn.

80% Dwarf Amenity Perennial Ryegrass

• 2 quality varieties, selected from the top third of the Sports Turf Research Institute’s recommended list for use on lawns and sports pitches.
• High shoot density, fine-leaved and year-round colour.
• Quick to establish and rapid recovery from wear and tear.

20% Slender Creeping Red Fescue

• Exceptionally fine-leaved fescue, recommended by the Sports Turf Research Institute for high-quality lawns and summer sports surfaces.
• Horizontal, creeping growth to fill the bottom of the sward and create a thick, dense turf along with the Dwarf Amenity Perennial Ryegrass.

How to sow a new lawn

1 - Clear the area
Clear the area and remove any stones, weeds and other debris.

2 - Improve the soil
Cultivate the area to a depth of 15cm and remove any debris that is unearthed. For heavy clay soils, optionally, mix in sharp sand.

3 - Create a level seed bed
Level and rake over the area. Use a lawn roller to firm the soil, if required.

4 - Allow the soil to settle
If possible, leave the soil for a week to allow a flush of weeds to come through; remove before sowing.

5 - Final ground preparation
Rake the area to loosen the top layer of soil. Apply our Pre-Seeding Lawn Fertiliser and rake into the soil.

6 - Sowing the grass seed
Spread the grass seed evenly across the area at 50g/sqm. A spreader can be used for accurate application.

7 - Rake and roll
This step is essential for successful establishment. Gently rake over the area again to incorporate the seed into the top 1-2cm of the soil, so that there is very little seed still visible on the surface. Then lightly roll or tread the seeds in to ensure good seed-to-soil contact. A harrow can be used for large areas.

8 - Water
If going through a period of drought, water the area every other evening for the first few weeks. If regular rainfall, manually watering will not be necessary.

9 - Mowing the lawn
Under optimum conditions, the seed should germinate within approximately 10-14 days. Once it reaches 3-4 inches, cut the lawn for the first time, gradually lowering the height with each subsequent cut as desired.

 How to repair an existing lawn

1 - Prepare the grass
Cut the existing grass short and almost scalp the lawn with the lawn mower. Remove any dead grass, debris and thatch.

2 - Improve the soil
Scarify or rake the surface to loosen the top layer.

3 - Aerate the lawn
Optionally, to aid drainage, use a garden fork or aerator to create small holes of around 1-2 inches deep.

4 - Sow the grass seed
Spread the grass seed evenly across the area at a minimum of 25g/sqm. A spreader can be used for accurate application.

5 - Rake and roll
This step is essential for successful establishment. Gently rake over the area again to incorporate the seed into the top 1-2cm of the soil, so that there is very little seed still visible on the surface. Then lightly roll or tread the seeds in to ensure good seed-to-soil contact. A harrow can be used for large areas.

6 - Water
If going through a period of drought, water the area every other evening for the first couple of weeks. If regular rainfall, manual watering won’t be needed.

7 - Mowing the lawn
Under optimum conditions, the seed should germinate within approximately 10-14 days. Once it reaches a height of 3-4 inches, cut the lawn for the first time, gradually lowering the height with each subsequent cut as desired.

1 - Germination

The best time to sow our Premier Lawn Seed is from March-October, when the soil temperature is around 8-10 degrees. Under optimum conditions, the seed should germinate within 10-14 days from sowing.

2 - Watering

Grass seed requires warmth, moisture and light to germinate. Typically, autumn will provide more favourable conditions for sowing in terms of moisture, however, if there is a period of drought, manually watering the seeds will be beneficial – this can be done every other evening to allow the moisture to soak into the soil.  

3 - Mowing

Allow your lawn to grow to around 3-4 inches in height before cutting your lawn. This can be reduced by half an inch each time until you reach the desired height. An established lawn sown with our Premier Lawn Grass Seed can be cut as low as 20-40mm. It is important to remove the grass cuttings as dead grass will prevent sunlight from getting to the new grass.

4 - Fertilisation

Regularly fertilising your lawn will provide it with the nutrients it requires to stay lush and green all year-round.

Once the lawn is four months old, you can apply our quick release fertilisers. Dependent on the time of year, choose our Spring and Summer Fertiliser or Autumn and Winter Fertiliser. Around four applications a year, with a minimum of three months between applications will provide sufficient nutrients for an established lawn. 

5 - Scarifying, Aerating and Overseeding

Both autumn and spring are good times of year to aerate and scarify your lawn, and tackle any worn areas by overseeding. Aerating your lawn is optional, but particularly useful if you have heavier clay soils where waterlogging may be a problem. Use an aerator or a garden fork to aid drainage. Scarifying is also beneficial in removing any dead grass, moss and thatch that may be hindering the growth of your existing grass.

After this process, there may be some bare patches amongst your lawn – this is the perfect time to overseed when the soil temperature is optimum and moisture is plentiful. We recommend overseeding with the same grass seed mixture as you have previously sown for a uniform appearance.

6 - Controlling Weeds

Unfortunately, as comes with seedbed preparation, weed seeds can lay dormant in the soil and it’s not until they are disturbed and the conditions are ideal, that they then can start to germinate.

If you find that weeds appear during establishment, these will generally be taken out by regular mowing once the lawn has reached around 3-4 inches in height. If the weeds are recurring, after 4 months, a Selective Weedkiller can be applied which will kill common lawn weeds, whilst leaving the existing grass unharmed.

7 – Controlling Moss

Moss can become problematic in areas that are particularly damp and shady. Moss Killer is best applied during March-October when moss is actively growing.

On a newly established area (under 5 months old), avoid using a moss killer as this will be too strong for the lawn. Instead, rake over the area to loosen and remove the moss and add further seed if required.

Once the lawn is established (over 5 months old), a moss killer can be applied such as our Lawn, Feed and Weed plus Moss Killer for light areas of moss, or our Lawn Revivor and Moss Destroyer for more heavily infested areas. After using these, the moss will turn black within a couple of weeks, rake and remove this and overseed with one of our lawn seeds.